Scarlet Tines - Budapest, Hungary

Torkos Csütörtök - Gluttonous Thursday 2012

Tue, 31 Jan 2012 00:29:08 +0100

Finally, the list is up!! It’s that time again for epicures to take arms against a sea of troubles, and by opposing, end them. And by troubles I mean a gaggle of groaning plates of gargantuan gastronomy still unconquered!! What a threat ;-) Arms in this case could entail a knife & fork, or chopsticks for example.
It seems as though little has changed since Epicurean times (341 - 270 BC). For many of us—apart from an alimentary necessity—food is certainly an expression of culture shared in common the world over. If further excuse is needed to participate in this overindulgence, you should turn to the frequent advice of how to survive the Winter blues in Budapest.
Gluttonous Thursday is a promotional campaign put together in association with many participating restaurants on one day of the year, or perhaps the Friday also in the case of some restaurants. The double delight in eating out on this day is a reduction of the bill by half at the end of your meal. Generally speaking, everything is included but of course it is always a good idea to ask.
So now all that remains is the date - Thursday February 7th. When should you book a table? You haven’t booked yet?!! You’re still here?!!
Here’s the main website concerned: http://www.torkoscsutortok.hu Feel free to leave your comments about your experiences! Jó étvágyat!

The wolverine’s [pictured left and napping in the snow above] (questionable) reputation as an insatiable glutton may be in part due to a false etymology. The animal's name in old Swedish, Fjellfräs, meaning "fell (mountain) cat", worked its way into German as Vielfraß, which means roughly "devours much". The wolverine (Gulo gulo gulo) lives primarily in isolated northern areas, for example the arctic and alpine regions of Alaska, northern Canada, Siberia and Scandinavia; they are also native to Russia and the Baltic countries.
Food Photo Mozaic © Partick Boland

Get your bib on!

Wed, 23 Mar 2011 00:34:21 +0100

The Michelin Guide for the main cities in Europe will go on sale in Paris on April 4th. However, the secret’s out: now Budapest has two michelin stars, one can say that things have finally taken off. However, there’s more - quite a few restaurants have secured the coveted Bib Gourmand* as well:

Costes (1 Michelin star) Head Chef: Miguel Vieira

Onyx (1 Michelin star) Head Chef: Szulló Szabina & Széll Tamás

Bock Bisztró (Bib Gourmand) Head Chef: Bíró Lajos

Arcade Bistro (Bib Gourmand) Head Chef: Fazekas László

Csalogány 26 (Bib Gourmand) Head Chef: Pethő Balázs

21 a magyar (Bib Gourmand) Head Chef: Kovács Árpád

The Michelin website mentions: “One recent development is the rapid growth in gourmet restaurants in Budapest, which now has its second one-star establishment - Onyx - as well as four awarded the Bib Gourmand label. Confirming that the trend towards greater value for money extends across all countries, the selection includes six new Bib Gourmand restaurants in Copenhagen (for a total of twelve) and two new Bib Gourmand restaurants in Helsinki (for a total of four).”

* Starting in 1955, the guide has also highlighted restaurants offering "good food at moderate prices", a feature now called "Bib Gourmand" since 1997. They must offer menu items priced below a maximum determined by local economic standards. Bib (Bibendum) is the company's nickname for the Michelin Man, its corporate logo for over a century.

Akciók - Sales!

Fri, 4 Feb 2011 16:21:14 +0100

Just a quick update—Bortársaság has announced its annual Winter sale, which starts today and runs until February 28th. You can find details of the sale here

A postcard from a world traveller

Thu, 3 Feb 2011 22:16:48 +0100

Lelovits Cabernet Sauvignon 2007

A dark shade of brick-red, this wine surprised me by showing some above-average character for a cabernet sauvignon in Hungary. I get the feeling that cabernet franc finds the Hungarian terroir far more appealing and is far more at home here than the sauvignon. That said, there are some great example of CS, albeit fewer in numbers. This is such a wine. Lovely black forest fruit aromas compliment the exciting chocolate and raspberry jam scents. Fairly thick with plenty glycerol, perhaps a bit high in alcohol but not dragging it out of balance to any significant degree. The medium level of tannins are very discernible as expected but rather smooth and unobnoxious. The above mentioned aromas show well on the palate with a relishable top note sweetness and hints of liquorice in the background. Also redcurrant and dried plums. The acid content is relatively high giving it some elegance, however the finish is quite short. Perhaps a little hollow in terms of body structure, the extract could be higher I think. A mediterranean character definitely pervades. I can certainly poke holes but overall this wine is very enjoyable and suits lighter red meat and fowl.

Tasting Date: January 2011
Type: Dry red minőségi / certified quality
Price: should be available at Borfalu-bortéka
Appellation: DHC Villányi

Csányi Villányi Cabernet Sauvignon 2008
This wine surprised me, I wasn’t expecting an awful lot given my experience with some of the mundane teleki wines. The wine had travelled up the cork which took some effort to remove. So perhaps the wine oxidised a little more than it should but I think tat CS can take a little aeration without sacrificing much. It was most noticeable in its lighter brick red colour in the glass. A light wine with low extract, low but persistent tannins and unobtrusive alcohol. Quite nice but simple profile on the nose with rather typical blackberry, vanilla and strawberry jam aromas—2008 was a sunny summer in Villány. These flavours extend into the taste accompanied with some spice and plummy notes. I didn’t get much in the way of vegetal flavours, or paprika mentioned on the tasting notes on the bottle reverse. Some glycerine sweetness peeps out of an otherwise uneventful profile. Quite low in acid. Overall a pleasant but unexciting wine.

Tasting Date: January 2011
Type: Dry red minőségi / certified quality
Price: c. 1500Ft
Appellation: DHC Villányi

Hairy Pig Fest...

Tue, 1 Feb 2011 22:34:59 +0100

Don’t forget this weekend is dedicated to the mangalica at the castle in the city park. They even have ham from mangalica which is made in Spain á la Jamón Iberico.

Mangalica Fesztivál
Date: 4-6 February, 2011
Location: Vajdahunyad Vár, Városliget, Budapest
Admission: free
Click here, for further information.

Also, worth mentioning, is a gathering of producers making traditional Hungarian products and foodstuffs. There will be a few good cheesemongers and vintners in their midst!

Kézmüves Magyar Ízek Vására/ ‘Artisanal Hungarian Flavours’ Market
Date: 11-13 February, 2011
Time: opens at 12 pm each day
Location: Millenáris Park, Building ‘B’, Kis Rókus utca 16-20, 1024 Budapest
Admission: 1,900 -Ft
Click here, for further information.

Something about sugar...

Tue, 1 Feb 2011 16:21:53 +0100

Here is an interesting article about just how hard it is to escape from sugar in the modern western diet! Perhaps the least-known but most interesting outcome is the comparable nature of some starbucks coffee in terms of calories to a BigMac: “Starbucks grande (16fl oz) caffe vanilla Frappuccino made with whole milk contains 15 teaspoons of sugar”

Heimann Kékfrankos 2008

Thu, 27 Jan 2011 14:50:47 +0100

Heimann Kékfrankos 2008

Light brick-red hue with lighter-than-average viscosity. Lovely fragrance of blueberries and strawberries with some spiciness. These fruity tones show through on the palate in a slightly less obvious form, along with some blackberry notes also. The wine was aged for 14 months in casks and this has certainly contributed to its more body than can be expected from kékfrankos, though overall I would still place it in the light to medium-bodied category.

The tannins are pleasantly low-key however this varietal is quite nicely balanced by good acidity and unnoticeable alcohol (13%). I think the date for harvest was spot-on in terms of predicting ripeness: this wine exudes deep ripe tones without any dangerously-high alcohol. I’m still thinking about how it compares to the previous vintages and my first impression is that is does so quite well. Perhaps the dry extract may turn out to be a bit lower (there is no information about this yet, the wine has just been released) than 2007 (29 g/l). In any case this wine represents an exceptional price-value ratio and demonstrates the undeniable charm of kékfrankos.

Tasting Date: January 2011
Type: Dry red minőségi / certified quality
Price: 1590 Ft / €5.77 from bortársaság
Appellation: Szekszárd

Tokaj trippin’

Fri, 21 Jan 2011 18:36:30 +0100

Degenfeld Tokaj Furmint 2006
A light colour with a lot of citrus fruit, green apple and acacia aromas. Hints of reductive technology without any unpleasant sulphurous tones that can accompany this technique. High in acid (5.8 g/l) with a good structure but some grapefruit-like bitterness on the finish. Overall a light-bodied, pleasant wine that would go well with oilier fish. More depth than expected.

Appellation: Tokaj-hegyalja

Degenfeld Harslevelű 2006
Some olfactory notes similar to what one might expect from an aszú, a little apricot and oxidised. It has some residual sugar, 15 g/l, and due to that it had an unctuous quality in the mouth. It’s sweet, somewhat reductive, and got some nice citrus and pear notes on the palate. Suffers from a weak acid-backbone which prevents it from attaining the elegance it otherwise could. Would go well with any chattering bourgeoisie en plein air.

Appellation: Tokaj-hegyalja

Degenfeld Fortissimo 2007
A small 500 ml bottle keep this sweet elixir contained. The Fortissimo late harvest is a cuvée of three varietals—Furmint, Hárslevelű and Muscat Lunel). It has moderate residual sugar for a sweet wine, 65 g/l. Typical fragrant aszú profile on the nose, along with hints of peach. A good balanced tone presents itself to the palate with vibrant, though moderate, acids with equal astringency and alcohol. There is some fiery spiciness to it which lends it some character. It has a pleasant medium-length finish but I would say that this late harvest is far from the most impressive I have tasted. Technically good, but lacking something to make it memorable.

Appellation: Tokaj-hegyalja

A new line...

Sun, 14 Nov 2010 23:28:33 +0100

Sauska Cuvée 113, 2009

A straw-yellow, viscous wine in the glass with a flattering black label featuring a solitary gold crown: the future identity of Sauska wines from Tokaj. It’s a curious beast. A cuvée of furmint and hárslevelü—the tokaj duo—with chardonnay and sauvignon blanc. This is the most likely the reason why it’s classified as ‘tájbor’ (county wine or vin de table) instead of its rightful designation as ‘minőségi’, according to its quality and pricerange.
On the nose it’s hot (with 14% alcohol) with notes of lemon, fresh vegetal hints of green tea and orange peel. Also some light minerality (flint stone) and a clean benzene-like aroma. Altogether very citrussy on the nose—some pineapple and peach could also be discerned.
On the palate the most striking element is the vibrant (lactic, less malolactic) acids, followed by the all-encompassing full-bodied nature of this very dry cuvée. Not much astringency to talk of as only 18% of the wine was fermented in barrel; however it has a lasting finish and has a very rounded mouthfeel. Chardonnay characteristics dominate in terms of taste - citrussy tang with Golden Delicious apple-like flavours complimenting the silky-milky-leesy texture. Unfortunately the tradeoff in picking late and getting it ripe is the high alcohol and it tends to dominate and put the balance out of kilter. There are some hints of vanilla also though this is definitely a more reductive style aimed at preserving the fruity character. There is some minerality on the palate also but little of the hárslevelü seems to come through for me. In short it is a good, enjoyable, Summery wine which is refreshing and stylish. I’d say it would have a decent aging potential as the sheer amount of alcohol and acid is bound to preserve it (and you) for all eternity; at the price of some of its fruity character over time.

Tasting Date: November 2010
Type: Dry white ‘vin de table’
Price: 2320 Ft / €8.54 from bortársaság
Appellation: Zemplén/Tokaj

Royal Tokaj Furmint, 2007
This multi-terroir furmint is golden-yellow in the glass with a greenish tint. Medium viscosity and the same for glycerol. In addition to the lovely mature apple notes there is a bouquet of honey developing which lends it incredible charm and character. It is reminiscent of a more oxidised wine yet retains all of the fruit character it had when I first tasted this vintage. Royal Tokaj fermented it in both wood and steel, maturing it for four months in half new oak, half stainless steel. It is more typically Tokaj then ever before and I think this wine has reached its pinnacle in terms drinking age. Deep citrus and honey notes now dominate on the palate, with less lemony top notes, more golden delicious than green apple. The mouthfeel is very pleasing: playful acids (6.4g/l), gentle astringency, almost full-bodied and nimbly-balanced. 14.5% alcohol goes almost unnoticed. The decay is medium-long and very smooth but not cloying. There is no discernible residual sugar in this bottle, but it has in fact 6.4g/l thanks to some wind later in the season which dried out the berries. An ambassadorial wine for this nascent winery.

Tasting Date: November 2010
Type: Dry white minőségi / certified quality
Price: 1500 Ft / €5.40 from bortársaság
Appellation: Mád - Tokaj

More notes...

Mon, 18 Oct 2010 23:46:00 +0200

Kiralyudvár

2007 Sec
70% Furmint, 30% Harslevelű. Apple and grapefruit aroma on the nose. Very complex. Long finish.

2006 Sec
70% Furmint, 30% Harslevelű. Honey and quince notes in the aroma. Very clean, lovely smooth mouthfeel. Overall a charming wine. Long finish.

Furmint 2005 Sec
Made in the traditional style. Deep tones, something complex and smokey in the aroma. Somewhat lighter finish than the Sec wines. Pleasing astringency. Some citrus notes on the palate, especially grapefruit. A nice tang on the finish.

Lapis 2007 Furmint
80% Furmint, 20% Harslevelű. Demi-sec and made completely in stainless steel. Elderflower, gunflint, bergamot and black cardamom on the nose. Very elegant wine. Light, pleasant to drink with a relatively short finish.

Lapis 2006
Floral nose with a definite hint of minerality. Creamy crème caramel flavours abound, with a lovely finish. Light and citrussy also.

Ilona 2003
Beautiful honeyed bouquet, definitely a big aszú cuvée of Furmint and Harslevelű. Intensely sweet and full-bodied but strongly counter-balanced with exceptional acids. Unctuous wine with a lot of apricot flavour on the palate. To be enjoyed on its own.

Aszú 6 puttonyos 2000
A wine of exceptional complexity and depth. More leather and sweet tobacco tones than the Ilona. Quince also features prominenty alongside malic acid flvours. Lovely, sustained decay.