Scarlet Tines - Budapest, Hungary

Wine Sale 2010

Fri, 15 Jan 2010 14:09:25 +0100

Just a quick update—Bortársaság has announced its annual Winter sale, which starts today and runs until February 28th. You can find details of the sale here. Monarchia Wines have a few wines on sale also, click here for details.

Eclectic wine tasting notes

Sun, 22 Nov 2009 18:19:15 +0100

Konyári Páva 2006, 6/3/2009
This is a cuvée of the two cabernets which yielded a full-bodied, high-extraction wine in a typical Bordeaux style. A low yield of 20 hl/ha. Covers the glass thickly, heavenly scent—1-2 years will show its best, aroma will develop into an amazing bouquet. Aroma—smoky, sandy, black pepper, toasty (black cardamom or coffee?), definite forest fruit, blackberries especially. On the palate: cassis, elevated acids, smoky, very long finish, very refined tannins, hints of glycerol, spice. Well balanced with alcohol level, a hint of vanilla at the end. Beautiful wine, one to cherish. Tannins need to settle down a bit to show itself at its best, I think this one has a good shelf-life ahead of it! Iridescent.

Konyári Cabernet-Syrah 2006, 6/3/09
This is one of my favourite syrah-containing wines from Hungary—I first tasted it at one of the wine festivals and was really an epiphany for me in terms of what syrah can offer. Inky-purple in the glass, medium translucency, dark fruits on the nose, liquorice, spices. More tannic than the red Loliense. Nice dark cherry flavours, very long finish, good acids. A very enjoyable, friendly wine.

Konyári Loliense Red 2006, 6/3/09
Partially barrique-aged, this is a vinous, fruity red wine with a very attractive aroma. Ruby red with medium translucency, it’s perfumed with strawberry and cherry on the nose. On the palate—vanilla, a touch of sweetness and bursting with fruit. Very smooth, rounded structure, good tannins, medium bodied—reminds me a bit of the Pannonhalma PN only more tannic. Punches well above its price tag in my opinion. A cuvée of the two cabernets (CS 40%, CF 20%) and merlot (40%). I look forward to the 2007 with trepidation given the rain at harvest.

Dúzsi Tamás Merlot 2005, 8/3/2009
Merlot-coloured, turning towards brick-red. Viscous, vinous wine with 13% alcohol. Fruity aroma, bouquet of toast beginning to emerge. Liquorice and blackcurrant on the nose, soft. On the palate an initial sweetness, medium tannins and slightly rustic in character. Syrupy with hints of raspberry, long finish. Well-balanced, not particularly high in acid (about average) but I didn’t think that that was lacking in this style of wine. Mature, envelops entire gustatory palate; enough tannins to induce slight pucker on first taste. Some smoky aromas, dark forest fruits. Long sweet finish, plenty of glycerol. Deep round flavours, a bit of pepper on the nose (not mine, the wine’s). Slight bitterness in the distance, not really intrusive. A soft, enjoyable and characterful wine.

Takler Kekfrankos 2007
Cherry-red in colour. Fermented in stainless steel tanks, great balance from 10 month large-barrel ageing. On the nose—cassis and sour cherry, very fruity with some spicy tones and a hint of almonds. On the palate—a medium-bodied, rounded wine, fruity sweet tones, especially ripe cherry, refreshing acids and low-medium tannins which give way to a slight bitterness which decays quickly in the (short) finish. A straight-forward, fruity character - a good inroad into the world of kékfrankos. Good value in my opinion, a favourite for weekday pasta (generally not in it—for sauces I tend to use a másfél magnum).

Takler Rosé Cuvée Primőr 2009
Bursting with fruit and fizzling acids, this is a young vibrant wine, no question. Dominant raspberry and strawberry notes in nose and palate, lovely salmon-pink colour. Some pleasant candied fruit (methyl anthranilate) aromas give way to deeper, canned strawberry tones. More full-bodied in style yet quite citric/sorbic and so probably among the most refreshing rosés I’ve had of late. A cuvéee of pinot noir, kékfrankos and kadarka. Fresh lively and tropical fruits abound, a nice start for the pinks of 2009! Definitely got more complexity than I expected for this style of new wine.

Upcoming wine & food festivals

Sat, 29 Aug 2009 14:33:52 +0200

SzeptEmber Feszt Népliget 2009
A three-day gastronomic festival at Népliget kicks off on September 4th. Members of parliament will show you how to make a stew of things (nothing new there). Highlights include “Cock a with the Pride and Fame of Little Rooster” and “Fairy Ring Mushroom Stew with Blueberries for Vegetarian”. I’m a bit stuck for words here so just go and see it. The following will be abstaining from stew long enough to bring you a performance: Deák Bill Blues Band, Első Emelet, Piramis,, Pink Floyd Tribute Band, Palya Bea, Wahorn András & Bakáts Tibor & Para-Kovács Imre, Budapest Ragtime Band,Géniusz and Blue Mood. Click here for the website, program, map.
Date: September 4 - 6 2009
Time: 10am until close
Location: Népliget (park); 1A tram or M3 to Népliget
Admission: free

Grape Harvest Celebration, Szentendre 2009

Also on the weekend of September 5th, the Hungarian Open Air Museum will hold a celebration of this year’s harvest. Grape pressing technique, must tasting, folk dancing, Serbian milk-loaf baking, Swabian blue-dying, a Kaláka concert—it’s all there in its eclectic splendour! What may be of further interest are the winemakers present:

Prácser Miklós, Tokaj  Nyári Ödön, Badacsony  Berger Zsolt, Tokaj  Asztalos Zoltán, Tokaj  Demeter Ervin, Tokaj  Légli Géza, Balatonboglár  Dúzsi Tamás, Szekszárd  Laposa Bence, Balaton  Hernyák László, Etyek  Turcsek Orsolya, Eger  Németh Attila Gábor, Mátra  Tamás Ervin, Csopak  Horváth József (Ráspi), Sopron  Kamocsay Ákos (Maurus), Mór  Fekete Béla, Somló  Drozdík József, Felvidék  Maurer Oszkár, Szerémség  Dénes Tibor, Somló  Berecz Stephanie (Kikelet), Tokaj  Schieszl Konrád, Csopak, Gyöngyös  Horváth Zoltán, Pécs
Gajdócsi Szabolcs, Tokaj
Date: September 5 - 6 2009
Time: 9am - 6pm
Location: Hungarian Open Air Museum, Szentendre
Admission: 1,600-Ft; 800-Ft Students, 400-Ft Children

18th Budapest International Wine Festival 2009

This annual wine festival, conveniently located on the terraces surrounding the Budavári Palota (Buda Castle), starts on September 9th and runs until the 13th.
The plus? With a stunning view of the city and decent attendance of wine growers, it stimulates at least three senses (sight, taste, smell). The downside? The extra cerebral input/confusion comes at a price, 2,300-Ft per day for entry, before you’ve even bought those little tasting tickets (“I just bought you a book of them?”). Okay, that does include a tasting glass (made of crystal this year), a glass-bearing bag and entry to National Gallery & Historical Museum. Last year the glass was quite small and cheaply made, not nearly as good as the tasting glasses given out for the Etyek Wine Festival in May. On the musical front—the Cotton Club Singers, Ghymes Ensemble, Benkó Dixieland Band, Hot Jazz Band, Four Fathers, Zoltán Orosz Quartet, Vivat Bacchus Choir and the Béla Bartók Male Choir.
Personally, I think there are enough serious vintners present to warrant at least one day at the festival. Not all of my favourite wineries are represented, possibly because most of them are preparing for harvest in the coming weeks. My tip? You have to be pretty hard-headedly determined to get around all the wineries you aspire visiting. Wine extorts an inordinate amount of time when you least expect it. Have a look at the exhibitor list and start subtracting from half the number you had considered visiting. Or you could buy a weekly pass. Just remember, 6,300Ft can go a long way in a wine shop—perhaps skip all the fuss and have a private wine tasting in your own castle. Terrace optional... Click here for further info, here for a downloadable map.
Date: September 9 - 13 2009
Times: 9-10th: 2pm - 11pm; 11th: midday - 11pm; 12-13th: 10am - 11pm (last entry 10pm)
Location: Terraces of Buda Castle Palace
Admission: 2,300-Ft/day (includes tasting glass & holder, entry to National Gallery & Historical Museum; 6,300-Ft/week pass; free for children under 12

Tokaji Ősz - Autumn in Tokaj September 2009
If you are looking to spend a weekend away in September this could be worth your consideration. It’s on the weekend of September 19th-20th and based around Mád in the Tokaj region. I haven’t been to this one but it seems to be something of a package holiday (transport, tasting, dinner, accommodation etc.) for those with a keen interest in Tokaj wines. There are six or seven packages to choose from starting at 59,900-Ft/person, which are pretty comprehensive. Undoubtedly, for those curious about these wines, the viticulture and place have magical elements. Click here for the website.
Date: September 19 - 20 2009
Location: Mád, Tokaj-hegyalja
Cost: from 59,900-Ft

Etyek Kezes-Lábos Gastronomic Festival 2009
This was a lot of fun last year and is worth the trip. This year it takes place at the weekend of September 26th and 27th. It is best to go earlier in the day and try not to miss the cultural events on at specific times, such as the Méta koncert és táncház on the 26th or Kolompos táncház on the 27th. Expect the usual Hungaricums, dairy products, apiaries, wineries, pastries and cakes, spices, jams and cheeses (look out for goat’s cheese esp. (“André kecskesajt”). This is in addition to a wide range of handicraft works and childrens’ activities. The Etyek cellars will also host some guest wineries from outside the area. Click here for a downloadable map.

You can reach Etyek from Budapest by public transport on Volánbusz from Kelenföldi pályaudvar in Buda. The number 7 express bus among others can take you to Kelenföldi pályaudvar from the city centre.. Here is the Volánbusz timetable website. In the afternoons there will be quite a queue for the buses going to Etyek. There is also a festival shuttle bus, details of which are here.
Date: September 26 - 27 2009
Time: 10am - 7pm
Location: Etyek village, Fejér County
Admission: free; 800-Ft/day parking ticket.

Erdőbénye Open Cellar Day October 2009
After their successful Bor, mámor, Bénye Fesztivál, Erdőbénye is holding an Open Cellars day on October 10th. The town is 230km and a good 2½ hours’ drive from Budapest. The organisers hope people will take a bottle of wine, some snacks and walk around the picturesque hills. Just be sure to return to Mulató hill by 7pm in time to listen to some Hungarian bagpipes—outdoors, as they should be! Click here for further details.

Date: October 10th 2009
Time: All day
Location: Erdőbénye village

Íznapok August Food Festival at Vajdahunyad Castle

Fri, 28 Aug 2009 17:06:54 +0200

This weekend will mark the second year the Hungarian Agricultural Marketing Centre (AMC) will hold a festival in association with the Museum of Agriculture, aimed at increasing awareness of fresh farm produce and foods unique to Hungary.

Expect a wide variety of flavoured bread, kürcsi őskalács, strudel (rétes), cakes, goat’s cheese, ‘csiga’ pasta, honey from various apiaries and a selection of wine, beer and spicy Hungarian pálinkas from the various regions throughout the country. Click here for an outline of the festival activities (in Hungarian). There will also be activities for children such as face painting and theatre presented by Madzag Bábszínház.

Date: August 29 - 30 2009

Time: 10am - 8pm (Saturday), 10am - 6pm (Sunday)

Location: Vajdahunyadvár - Castle in Városliget

Admission: 400-Ft/day; 600-Ft combined ticket for admission to Agricultural Museum; free for children under 14.

Ho Chi Lunch

Fri, 3 Jul 2009 15:48:32 +0200

I made this salad yesterday influenced by Vietnamese cuisine - it turned out really well!

Preparation time: 20 minutes
Cooking time: 20 minutes
Serves: 4

Ingredients

Salad
200g bean sprouts
2 carrots, grated
20-30g mint leaves, roughly chopped
½ a spring onion, finely diced
1-2 small red chillies, deseeded and finely chopped
4-5 leaves of iceberg lettuce, chopped in small strips
1 yellow paprika, sliced in strips
1 red bell (californian) pepper (optional), sliced in strips

Dressing
Juice of 1 lime
2 cloves of garlic, crushed
1 tbsp (15g) muscovado (brown) sugar
1 tbsp rice vinegar
1 tbsp fish sauce (nước mắm, or nam pla in Thai)
4 tbsp olive or sesame seed oil
Black pepper as seasoning

With turkey/chicken breast
500-800g chicken breast, skin optional
1.5 litres boiling chicken stock
2 tbsp olive oil

Preparation
Combine the salad ingredients in a large bowl and toss gently. Mix together the dressing ingredients with a fork and season to taste. Bring the stock up to the boil and portion the breasts before adding to the stock. Simmer for 12 - 15 minutes depending on the thickness of the breast. Remove the breasts and set aside. Fire up a large heavy pan and add olive oil. Season the breasts with salt and freshly ground pepper. When the oil is just about to smoke add the meat to the pan and sear the meat until golden brown, about 3 minutes per side. Remove to a chopping board and slice into 4 or 5 slices just before serving. Place on top of a portion of salad and serve with dressing.

Notes
The point of poaching the chicken breast before sautéing is to render down the fat and prevent the meat from becoming too dry. It also adds an extra layer of flavour, depending on what is in your stock. For best results, use a homemade stock and add 2 teaspoons of crushed coriander seeds. You can add a splash of soy sauce prior to removing breasts from the pan for extra taste. A fresh fruity white wine would go well with this, such as this one. You can get ingredients such as fish sauce in Culinaris or Exotic India foodstore (see my Links section).

A Taste of Spring

Thu, 28 May 2009 21:48:03 +0200

March Tasting Notes
Birkás Pincészet, Kadarka 2006
This wine comes from the Alföld Kunság region, not a central region on the wine map but there are some good examples slowly emerging from the region. A nice brick-red colour with a light appearance in the glass. Some strawberry on the nose, also some woody (phenolic) character. A light-bodied wine with the elevated alcohol bringing it out of balance in my view. Slight bitterness on the finish. Low extract and lacking body for my taste.
Bolyki János, Ördöngős 2005
Bolyki János is a talented young winemaker from Eger. Deep purple in colour, this wine had a pleasant, vinous and fruity aroma with some woody (sweet vanilla, smoky) notes. Also on the nose a bit of earthiness which I would describe as dusty. A round, well-structured, medium-bodied wine with smooth tannins and overall, quite elegant. Good lengthy finish. Very enjoyable.
Szeleshát Pincészet, Merlot 2006
A production of 400 bottles from this Szekszárdi cellar. An interesting brick-red wine with a complex nose: jammy, strawberries, smoky, burnt coffee, menthol. Marked but velvety tannins, acid and bitterness on the palate. A taste of citrus and menthol, as well as deeper notes of cedar and coffee.
Tiffán Ede és Zsolt, Cabernet Sauvignon & Franc 2007
Purple and concentrated in the glass. Sandy, vinous nose with a whiff of oak and spice. Lots of dark forest fruit also. Very fruit-forward on the palate, with strawberry jam and dark berries being most apparent. A rather pleasant but unusual taste of green tea. Overall a bit austere and the tannins are rather high at this point. I would agree with the assessment that maturity peaks 2-3 years from now—I think this really has potential.
Figula Fülöp 2006
Cherry-red to purple in colour. This is a Merlot and Cabernet Franc blend from Tihanyi. Cassis and woody tones dominated in the plentiful aroma. Fruity taste with some citrus tang and a hint of menthol. Thin-bodied with accentuated alcohol and palpable acid. Tannins were very low. I think this particular wine is very overpriced.
Vylyan Ördög 2007
Deep purple in the glass, this is cuvée of Blaufränkish, Kadarka, Zweigelt and Merlot. Sour cherries, blackberries and sandy on the nose, but also some resinous and burnt woody characteristics. Medium tannins, high in alcohol (13.7%) and very high acids (though listed as only 5.6g/l). The devil is in the detail. Or put another way, I’ll have my finger back thanks.

Nota bene

Tue, 26 May 2009 12:51:39 +0200

May Tasting Notes
Maurer Oszkár Fodor, Olaszrizling 2006
Golden and thick in the glass. On the nose, sweet aromas of fresh hay, vanilla with some minerality similar to a Furmint. Slightly excessive vaporising alcohol on the nose, but this may have been simply due to the fact that all the wines had been sitting out a while before I tasted them, and had started to warm up. Quite astringent and strong on the fore-palate, slightly sharp for my liking. Overall an interesting wine.
Demeter Zoltán Veres, Furmint 2007
Straw-yellow in colour, very clear in the glass. Very little aroma on the nose besides some flinty notes. Quite fruity on the palate, some typicality of a furmint, some residual bitterness but overall rather mellow. Technically well-made but for me, lacking character.
Királyudvar Demi-Sec, 2005
This is a single vineyard (Becsek) cuvée, employing 70% furmint and 30% Hárslevelű. It is dark straw-yellow with a greenish tint and a viscous character in the glass. Initially, I got a slight whiff of petrol ether; thankfully that gave way to much more pleasant aromas of apple, dark liquorice, flowers, with some deep woody tones (reminded me of black cardamoms—basically a smoky character). A lovely long finish. It has a residual sugar of 19.2g/l which is well balanced against the 7.3g/l total acidity and an alcohol level of just 12.2%. A remarkable, memorable wine with a definite identity—I think this would pair well with more piquant foods.
Domaine Pierre Frick Cuvée Précieuse, Pinot Blanc 2003
The vines for this biodynamic wine are grown on a small parcel of loess soil with a calcareous base in Pfaffenheim, Alsace. A gentle pale yellow colour with a light-bodied appearance. Leesy on the nose, which yields to a beeswax and pineapple bouquet. Very charming on the mouth, with a mixture of minerality, quince, and dried fruits (especially raisins). A good finish. Despite the acidity being 5.6g/l, this wine has aged well, perhaps due to the residual sugar of 10g/l. I’d have it with roasts of duck, veal or ostrich, or over gouda or parmesan cheese.
Kartner Gábor Szűcsi, Kékfrankos 2007
This ruby red wine was probably a little too warm to taste as there was quite a lot of heat on the nose (13% alcohol). Despite this, I picked up some fruity, dark cherry notes. A light-bodied wine with elevated tannins which wrenched the wine out of balance completely. However this may bode well for ageing. Red forest fruits and cherry flavours abound on the palate but too young to drink just yet.
Domaine des Escaravailles Côte du Rhône, Les Sablières 2007
In the 17th century the owners of the farm used to wear long black capes, hence the name given by the villagers: ‘Escaravaille’ meaning ‘beetle’ in the Occitan language. Gilles Ferran grows the vines for this blend on partly-terraced clay soil slopes. It is a blend of 70% grenache (40 years old) and 30% syrah (30 years old). The overall yield is 45 hl/ha and the winemaker insists on avoiding chemicals as much as possible. Deep ruby red in colour, this wine had the typical deep grenache aroma on the nose. In addition, some smoky scents mix in with canned strawberries and cherries. Silky tannins compliment the full fruit-driven flavours of this light-bodied wine. Very enjoyable.
Pók Tamás Pajdos, 2007
What an intellectual wine! Dr. Pók Tamás has been making wines in Eger since the early nineties, and is perhaps most well-known for his Monarchia Winery wines. Now, however, he is starting his own label, Pajdos, and this is the first I have tried. A cuvée of CF, PN, Kékfrankos and Merlot, this wine is beautifully floral and complex on the nose. Peeking through the plentiful violets are strawberries, nutmeg and cinnamon. A vinous, fruity taste with a well-balanced mouth-feel. Relatively light-bodied, with a medium level of smooth tannins. A sublime, under-priced wine—the most floral of Hungarian wines tasted to date.
Kartner Gábor, Vitézföld 2007
A ruby red wine with an oily viscosity in the glass. The first thing I noticed were the tannins which may need a little time to settle. An aroma dominated by strawberries with some smoky tones. Predominantly fruity on the palate with 14% alcohol.
Domaine des Escaravailles Côte du Rhône Villages Rasteau, La Ponce 2007
This wine was also produced by Gilles Ferran on red and yellow clay soil, 150-200m above sea level. It is a cuvée of Grenache (80%) from 80 year old vines and Syrah (20%) which are in their 35th year. The yield is 35 hl/ha and the varietals are vinified separately before blending. Dark cherry-red colour in the glass with some grenache hints on the nose as above. Beautiful aromas of forest fruits and oak. Marked but not disturbing tannins present which will give the wine some longevity. On the palate some mineral qualities, mulberries, black pepper. Also a sweetness from the grenache which helps prolong the finish.

Tokaj Kikelet

Sun, 26 Apr 2009 19:49:32 +0200

In late March of this year, I paid a visit to the Kikelet winery, among others, in the Tokaj region. Through a melange of English, French and Hungarian, I learned about how the wine was made in this enchanting region from the winemakers, Stéphanie and Zsolt Berecz. The wine spoke for itself. Here are my impressions.
Kikelet Furmint 2007
Light yellow with a youthful verdant glint, viscous in the glass. fruity nose, lovely elevated acids, mineral notes on palate, red fruit, peach, nice yeasty finish.. 1200 bottles. a hint of minerality in addition to fruitiness (melon, grapefruit, apricot).
Kikelet Harslevelü 2007, Lónyai field
Some delicate sage, linden and floral notes on the nose. on the palate - fruity, apricots, peaches, with a nice sweetness and good acids. some honey, gooseberries in taste.. good rich structure. nuanced minerality possibly from the rocky soil of that field. 17g/l residual sugar, 12% alcohol. a nice lengthy decay. a very drinkable vibrant and exciting wine. one to age a few years more. 800 bottles.
Kikelet Tokaj Harslevelü-Furmint 2007, field selection
Nice fruity aroma, beautiful pouched pear notes, with a crisp sweetness of honey in mouth. 19g/l residual sugar. 880 bottles.
Kikelet Harslevelü-Furmint Late Harvest 2006
This was harvested in November of that year and the Berecz’s produced a mere 2,000 bottles. It has 69g/l rest sugar. Light pale yellow in colour. Very intriguing nose, with something very characteristic I just can’t quite put my finger on (as close as I can get: like children’s non-alcoholic red ‘champagne’, that artificial methyl anthranilate scent). Aromas of quince, benzene, apricot, spices, dried fruits. This cuvée is half-half, and this is evident in the good but slightly erratic structure of the wine, but not overly extracted. Nice charming nutty (almonds) palate, medium finish with a hint of bitterness. It will mature into a more elegant creature with age. I loved the style of this wine.
Kikelet 5 Puttonyos Aszú 2004
Lovely golden colour. Characteristic honey on the nose, as well as lively fruity aromas (esp. apple) and some complexity. Harslevelü was used as the base wine to make this particular aszú. Sweet acacia honey on palate. Noticeably longer finish than Late Harvest 2006. They produced 830 bottles from this vintage.
Kikelet Zéta 2008 (barrel sample)
A very interesting wine showing much potential at this stage. Still slightly cloudy, but that should clear before bottling. Vinous aroma with a definite hint of strawberries. Vibrant acids balanced against an amiable sweetness. Musk and green notes on the palate. Creamy, full mouth-feel, good finish. Reminiscent of a good oaked chardonnay.

Konyári I

Thu, 5 Mar 2009 23:12:30 +0100

Reflecting on Konyári Merlot-Kékfrankos 2006
"Good wine ruins the purse; bad wine ruins the stomach" (Spanish saying). True?
I’ll make no bones about it. When it comes down to a weekday-with-pasta Hungarian red for me, this is it. Or should I write, this was it. And the only thing which is ordinary about it is is the price, which in my opinion is keen, to say the least. I find it hard, however, to tell you what is quotidian about it.
Somewhere between ruby red and merlot-coloured in the glass, medium viscosity. First impressions - vinous, fruity and spicy aroma. On the nose: strawberries, canned strawberry, plum jam. I believe the merlot (~60%) and kékfrankos are aged for a few months in casks. Some lovely notes of sea water and wet sand (I grew up beside the sea)—this may be close enough to a woody aroma, cedar perhaps. Definitely a lot of fruit extract, which is balanced and structured well by the wood. Vibrant well-considered acids and medium, smooth tannins. 12.5% alcohol which fits in harmoniously. A well-made wine with a lot going for it with an appreciable finish lingering a few seconds. This bottle really encapsulates the Balaton sunshine of that summer. Great for casual conversations, roasted vegetables or lighter red meats.
Tasting Date: most of 2007
Type: Red, Dry, Minőségi / Certified Quality
Price: 1230 Ft / €3.88
Appellation: Dél-Balaton
My rating: 14/20

On Konyári Merlot-Kékfrakos 2007
Kékfrankos and Merlot are an exceptional marriage in any case, in my opinion. In this case the Merlot governs ⅔ of the 75 cl estate. Noticeably different from ’06, more dark fruit I think. In short, not as well-balanced (lower extract, higher alcohol) as 2006, which seems to have been a kind year to the wine growers in this part of the world. I hadn’t realised it was the new vintage until I put my nose in the glass, as the artistic and evocatively-designed label remained unchanged. Slightly more translucent than previous. Nevertheless it is obvious that excellent wine making technique has made the best of a new vintage. Still medium bodied, showing a cherry red to purple colour in the glass, not overly-viscous. An perfumed aroma of plums, cherries, jam. It is hard to get away from strawberry on the nose which is becoming a hallmark of this wine for me. I also get a charming vegetative quality - eucalyptus mostly, although the freshness also evokes mint, especially on the finish. As for a spicy presence: liquorice. 13% alcohol and certainly more noticeable than the previous vintage. Sturdy tannins give good structure. As with the previous vintage, there might not be much more than that to find in your glass, besides a sweet hint of vanilla at the end. However it is unlike most of its compatriots in the same price band (and there aren’t many in my opinion—please sound off in the comments if you have any suggestions). To use an analogy, sometimes there is very little to separate a showing class of working hunter horses. In many cases, all exhibiters are excellent examples in terms of conformation, colouration etc. In this situation the judge may pin the red rosette on the horse based on how he carries himself; in short, the ‘presence’ of the horse. The point I'm making is this wine really punches above its station, and while it may not have all that much complexity, it certainly has a presence which has left an impression on me. I would recognise it in an instant. So that is it, my two cents. Pass on it or drink it. Be forewarned though: this wine fits well into the gateway hypothesis. Additionally, I have to say the highest vinous echelons from the vintner will leave an obvious dent in your means. There are whispers among the grape vines that they are worth it though.
Tasting Date: March 2009
Type: Red, Dry, Minőségi / Certified Quality
Price: 1230 Ft / €3.88 from Bortársaság and Decanter
Appellation: Dél-Balaton
My rating: 13/20

Karadka Queens

Fri, 27 Feb 2009 22:35:23 +0100

Balla Kadarka 2005 Ménes
Deep cherry red - dark purple coloured in the glass but with good clarity and about normal viscosity. Initially, a cherry-candy aroma on the nose, reminiscent of synthetic lip balm more than real cherries. Generally attractive forest fruit aroma and lingering spice. After a while the developing bouquet unveils itself as perfumed cherry, plum jam, some forest floor, toasty notes, vanilla, and some vegetal quality (tarragon, rosemary). On the palate I detected cherry, thyme, cream and forest mushrooms and some red apple. Also a hint of sweet whisky/cognac maybe from the alcohol. A year of Barrique-ageing in 225l Hungarian/Romanian oak barrels lends some almost hard, tight tannins, contributing to the masculine character of the wine. Slightly high alcohol for my taste (13.5%) comes forth as wine warms up. Clean, balanced acids (6.1g/l). Pleasant extended finish. Strangely, it reminds me of children’s non-alcoholic red champagne. Would go well with roasts, turkey, beef etc.
Tasting Date: 26 Decemeber 2008
Type: Red, Dry, Minőségi / Certified Quality
Price: 2670 Ft / €8.91 from Bortársaság
Appellation: Romania, Erdély - Arad-Hegyalja
My rating: 14/20

Heimann Kadarka 2007
Brick red colour, very translucent and pale, low adherence to the glass. A hint of grenache on the nose, along with tinned strawberries. After a while that aroma gives way to more persistent alcohol and less fruitiness. Some spice, cherry, red fruity flavours on the palate along with elegance and a short finish. Light bodied. However, a noticeable lack of tannins - which fails to reinforce fairly high acids. Could be better wine with a more balanced, substantial body; certainly disappointing verses 2006. In my opinion the asking price is too high for this wine, considering the 2006 vintage was similarly priced.

Tasting Date: 4 Decemeber 2008
Type: Red, Dry, Minőségi / Certified Quality
Price: 2250 Ft / €7.51 from Bortársaság
Appellation: Szekszárd
My rating: 11/20